Santana 2023 Owners & Santa Wannabes!

Rigging / Mast
& Sails

Alternative Spreader Assembly

Tom B. had lost a factory mast at the spreader bracket slot and looked for a better system!

He bought a Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, DH2331 Staineless Steel Spreader bracket which they designed for the Colgate 26, (price in 2008 was $64.90), and two DH2503 large aluminum airfoil spreaders, (2008 price $31.10). The bracket can be screwed to the mast or riveted on the factory mast and is considerably stronger than the stock style.

His assembly was mounted on a new Dwyer mast with standing rigging, (Dwyer DM330), but it could be adapted to the OEM mast. This is something to consider.

*Note: At the time of writing, (June 2010), the Dwyer website did not show the DH2331 spreader mount. The number is good but doesn't show in the catalog. Call or e-mail Jay Kirby at Dwyer, (mail@dwermast.com), he'll walk you through. You might want to trace the bottom of the mast profile and send it to him. They may be able to further customize it for better fit to the 2023 Mast with that info. The bracket is from the Colgate 26 mast which they make.

Mast Support / Base Rebedding

My 1994 sailboat is celibrating its 11th birthday, (as of 2005), I think its time to rebed the mast base support!

To start out, I removed the two phillips head wood screws at the lower "wings" near "A" of pic #1. Looking at the old seal around that part, I noticed it was abit cracked and flaky so all I did was to lightly tap it towards the rear to break it free from the cabin deck. (Should yours be stuck better than mine was, just cut and/or scrape away as much old seal as necessary to free it up.) Moving the post further back allowed the post to wiggle down and out of the upper support. (seen in position "B" of picture #2)

*Just to explain: "B" in Pic #1, denotes the wires that I ran up my mast. The black one is for my VHF radio antenna and the white one is for my anchor/mast light. Both wires were originally tie wrapped on the mast support pole. The nylon tie wraps played havoc on my hands when you grabbed the pole to go forward. I'll be fixing that soon by relocating them inside the support pole. "C" is my quarter-throw valve. (Explained in the "Hull and Water Ballast" page.) "D" is the stock electric panel which I plan to upgrade soon. (That is also the direction to the bow of the boat.)

With the lower section pushed back that lowered the post so it could be wiggled off the upper support. Seen in picture #2, position "B". (The bolt is a stainless steel 3/8" diameter, 3 inch long, course thread.)

When I removed the post, I found that the black rubber seal on the overhead was nearly cut in two from the support pole resting on it. It was also noted how simple the factory made everything. All they did was to use a PVC plug and drill a 3/8th hole through it. Then they lightly sanded the flats to snugly fit inside the aluminum 1-1/2" diameter by 45-1/2" long mast support pole.

After removing the pole I used a 7/16" open end wrench to hold the outside parts of position "A" while I used a 7/16" socket to remove the inside nuts. just prior to their removal I lightly tapped them upward so the bolts could be removed from the outside. In a similar fashion I removed the 3/8th inch bolt.

The rubber patch look familiar. It was identical to the rubber patch used for the stock water ballast valve! Should you need one just go to a Tractor Supply Store (TSC). They have them for about $2.80 as of July 2005.

In picture #3 you'll see the black area that is directly under the outside aluminum mast base support. That is not a black rubber seal, it was moldy old seal the factory used. (During rough weather sailing, water was leaking in from that area too.) That you time and clean every bit of the black scum off. For the final cleaning I just used fine sand paper. Low and behold, it's white under there!

It's really important for you to remove every bit of the old moldy seal as when ever you put new on top it will only hold as well as the base coat will let it.

Being the base coat of seal, (at least on mine), was totally ruined, I highly doubt water would be held back once the mold starts to infect the new seal I just put on.

Rebuilding!

Now that everything is cleaned up, I got some 3M 4000 UV seal and first circled all three holes on top. Then I lightly applied more to cover the rest of the part the mast base was to cover.

Seeing that the 3/8" hole was tapered and the bolt was not, I obtained a washer to cover the tapered part of the metal and placed it on the bolt. Then I lightly put more seal on the lower half of all the bolts making sure I put just a bit more around the tapered part as the washer was going to cover it.

From inside the cabin I placed the fender washer and nuts on the smaller bolts and just like when I removed them, I placed an open end wrench on the top and started to fasten them. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM! Just put them part way on.

When assembling the 3/8" bolt from the inside, you'll have to put a rubber washer on first, then go to the hardware store and get a really big fender washer. (Mine was a 1/2" hole by 2-1/2" fender washer. They didn't have a really big 3/8" one.) The big SS fender washer goes on next, then put the PVC plug back on, then the regular 3/8 fender washer, then the Nyloc nut. Just like before, DO NOT tighten it!

About 20 minutes later, the the 4000 seal has "skinned" over and you can then tighten all the bolts.

From here it just a matter of a small amount of seal on the clean cabin deck where the post rests, wiggling the post back in place and snugging the screws in.

I'm going to put my wires inside the pole before I put the post back in place so I'll not seal the lower part yet. This entire rebedding takes less than an hour.

Spreader Ends

The spreader are made from aluminum and have a one inch max outside diameter. The outer ends have a nylon plug pushed in. Mine came from the factory colored black but over time that will naturally fade and the nylon will weaken or crack needing replacement.

On the ends of each plug there is a shallow vertical slot or groove and a hole on each side of the groove that a stainless screw, (two total), goes into.

Another piece of nylon is screwed over the plug, lets call it a cap. It also has a matching shallow groove. The flat cap acts as a "pinch" device for the upper cables, (shroud), which fit through the groove.

I hope the descriptions above don't make the spreader tip area confusing or sound complicated, it's not! Just about anything can be used to hold the shrouds, the factory used nylon. Over the years that seemed to work very well and the price is pretty low also.

Spreader Tip UV Protection

Apply rigging tape on the outer portion of the spreader. That will help stop the UV attack on the plastic spreader tips.

Sheet Purchase Attachment 2:1

(The R models have winches and don't need this setup.)

During the first couple seasons my wife and daughter both found it very difficult to adjust the sheets when a load was pulling hard. During a really good blow I did too. They tried their best from the forward portion of the cockpit. Being close to the clamps both of them nearly got their hands pinched in the clamps. I always sat in the rear so as to steer and adjust. The pinching never really crossed my mine but I wanted to protect them so I modified the stock 1:1 ratio into a 2:1. Oh yea, I also told them not to be so close to the pinch clamps!

Look carefully at the picture, it shows a two to one sheet setup for the jib / genny. This is a poorman's way to get more purchase power on the jib when you don't have a winch.

Notice that I have added a sheet block track. The track is not needed for the 2:1 setup nor does it come standard on the A or C models. The 2:1 modification works with or without a track.

The smallest clevis I could find that fit around the clew slot was used to attach two Harkin blocks on the clew of the jib. (In order to keep flying mass to a minimum during a tack / jybe. The pulley blocks also reduced the friction that would be caused by directly going through the clew hole on the jib. One block is for the port sheet and the other for the starboard sheet.

*(The clew came with a smooth stainless hole. I didn't really need to attach a block. It's your choice, to use one or not.)

The setup is quite simple. First tie one end of the sheet to the base of the cabin mounted sheet block. From there fish the other end through the clew hole or the pulley and back to the original cabin mounted sheet block pulley, then rearward through the pinch clamp. Don't forget to tie a stopper knot on the end of the line! The line is about 15 feet longer than originally used for the 1:1 setup.

The factory warns about the possible difficulty for the sheets to be fed when tacking. Since going 2:1, I have not noticed any problems in winds over a couple knots.

*In another section I talk about making sure the shroud's turnbuckle didn't bend when raising the mast during setup. If you look at the picture you'll see the plastic tube I mentioned using. For lack of any other name my ego got the best of me and I names it "George's Dual Boot". (You can stop laughing now because it works!) It's a tube that both shroud turnbuckles are inside.

Lower Shroud Setup (ball-end fix)

After the first winter layup I inspected everything the following spring, that included the spreader bars and shrouds. As I looked at the lower shroud's ball ends, I noticed that both had tiny raised line-like marks on them. My previous knowledge of mechanical things told me the lines were created by the tool that squeezed the ball ends on the cable end. The lines being steel would dig into the softer aluminum spreader bar every time the mast was raised. Being loose while trailering, the ball ends would "snag" in a cocked position. As the mast was raised the shrouds would bend the cable at a variety of directions. The bending back and forth could possible cause failure as well as being pulled out

Common sense told me to file the "lines" off. Having cleaned them off, it would give the balls more of a chance to pivot in the bar's socket. The cable now has less chance to bend and fatigue.

I consider the small bit of filing to be what prevented any problems on my boat. Now that I think about it, a shot or two of lube might help more. Every 2023 owner should look to see if the crimp-lines are causing problems for them! The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced the "line" is the problem and the filing is the fix.

Mast Base Improvement

On the bottom of the mast, you find the two triangle plates that hold things in place. This also has a bolt to the rear that assists when stepping.

In four years of mast raising and sailing around, during a regular inspection, I found the rear bolt and the lower front bolt were wearing more than I thought they should be so I looked for ways to beef things up. The picture shows what I came up with.

The bolts are all slightly thin and wore far too much for my likings. Guess what I did? You've got it, I increased the diameter and I added a compression washer! (My wife says that I over-kill everything. Sometimes... I do!)

The bolts were suppose to be grade 304 stainless steel or better. When I hunted around at local stores all I could find were lesser-grades that had a metric like stamping on the bolt head so no one could tell what they were. Even the store didn't know what they were. Later I called an industrial supply house and inquired about the different stamping marks. Eventually I obtained the correct grade type. The ones I finally got were similar to the required 304 SS. That made me feel much better.

Mast Modification

The original two forward bolts were 1/4" in diameter and the rear bolt was a 5/16". A 5/16" diam. bolt will fit nicely inside 1/2" diam. grade 304 hydraulic tube that has a wall thickness of .083". That's a standard size and should be stocked at any good hydraulic tube shop.

After obtaining the parts I drilled and filed the mast's 1/4" holes, opening them up to fit the 1/2" OD tubing. The 1/2" tubes provided more surface area which gives me a much longer life.

Mast Plate Modification

The rear holes already fit a 5/16" bolt so I increased them to fit a larger 3/8" SS bolt. (More overkill? Naaa!)

The last drilling was on the forward holes. They were drilled to fit a 5/16" diam. bolt. This part turned out to be easy just remember; DO NOT cut and file the bolt ends until after the final finishing. *(Trust me on this one. Do the final length fitting after everything else has been completed, and try it several times to be sure! Of course you can just buy additional bolts.)

Remember; THE PLATES were drilled to fit the bolts. (A 3/8" diameter bolt for the rear hole and 5/16" diameter for the two forward holes.) The two holes on THE MAST were modified to accept the 1/2" diameter tube

Easy, so you would think. After assembling the plates only, (not mounted on the mast), I had to file the tabernacle holes and slots to fit the new sizes. The operation of the plates was to be sure everything would fit while the mast was lifted into the vertical position. (Important to note this was done while not being mounted on the mast.) Just pretend your raising the mast and file the slots so they allow a smooth fit as the bolt/tubes move into position. Be sure the bolts are tightened to the normal width so the plates will fit properly.

Next I mounted everything on the mast itself. This was done countless times. On then off. On then off. Just to find out how to get a tight fit on the mast and still be able to operate on the tabernacle. Now I put four to five 1/2" nylon washers on each side of the front two tubes. This was done so I could keep everything snug which prevents the mast from sliding on the tubes and wearing something out. Putting the nylon spacers on took several other "On and off" actions. (What a pain!)

The next day I raised the mast just like I would at a lake. Yea... I had to re-adjust the bolts again. After having to purchase another 5/16" bolt, (I told you to wait until totally finished before cutting the bolt lengths!) Now I was happy and finished the project by cutting and filing the bolt to a proper length.

I'm not really sure but somewhere during this time I filed the tubes so their length were near perfect. They had to fit between the plates and hold the plates out enough so as not to cause binding on the tabernacle. The nylon flat washers were used for the proper spacing.

After finally getting everything to fit in place, I tightened the front bolts with SS Nyloc nuts. The plates were now snug as a bug and I was happy!

Upper Forestay Through-bolt

Similar as what was done in the "Mast Base Improvement", I modified the upper forestay bolt by making a compression bolt for it. The bolt's strength was improved and I was able to mount my VHF antenna to it, (see electrical section). The bar is needed to mount the upper furler roller which additionally holds the forestay. Over time, the loose fit and the constant pulling of the forestay cable caused my bolt to bend.

The only difficult part of this installation was that the compression tube section needed to be in two sections, one on each side of the aluminum bar. After several, (many?), fittings of the bolt and modifying the tubes, all worked out fine.

It really isn't that difficult. The only scary part was when I originally started to remove the bar from the slot. It wouldn't come out even after repeated wiggling and pulling. I found the reason. While on top of a ladder with my head and eye ball real close looking directly into the slot to see if I could figure the reason. Several wasps slowly started to crawl out of the slot but couldn't fly. Thank you for the cold Michigan spring time day!

Later and after much wasp spray, I slowly removing the bar I found lots of wasp nest on it.

Basic Cable Data for My Tall A-model

(I'm sure the factory aproximated each cable set by an inch or two. Your lengths may varie!)

Sheet Clamps

The stock jib sheet clamps were difficult to operate from the opposite side as they were only made to operate from a near straight pull. Giving myself a Christmas gift, I replaced them with ones that allow proper operation from the sides.

Several other owners mentioned changing them to the kind that pivot. All though the end result is the same I have a problem with the cost. It's nearly three times the cost than the ones I obtained and the pivot type look like they might get hung-up on the leeward line. Well... maybe not but why bother thinking about it anyway.

Gooseneck Improvements - (several methods)

You're enjoying smooth sailing across a beautiful lake. With a slight wind shift and no other boats around, you figure it's a great time to tack. Starting your smooth turn it is suddenly interrupted by the jib sheets, or jib itself, getting fowled on the gooseneck, thus ruining your placid sail. A major problem... no. A major hassle... yes!

Everyone has talked about this inherent problem. Several owners have come up with methods to prevent this from happening. Most seem promising but only one is a sure bet.

Roller Go-Boom!

After having my sheets snag most of the past seasons, I came up with a fix that used a special one-of-a-kind handle. It was difficult to make but at least it got rid of the metal rod and tube that stuck out in front of the mast. With the exception of dropping the modified crank handle and possibly chipping the deck or worse yet... losing the crank handle overboard, being "specialized" it would be near impossible to replace it short of a month's worth of home projects.

This first modification worked really good but after a full year I started to design a better roller system. Like my first modified unit, this newer one had no parts that protruded out front. Nothing out front means nothing to get hung up on.

Looking at the picture, you'll notice that I've used a standard winch handle. Now I won't be as concerned should I loose the handle, I can get another real easy or borrow one from a friend. Marine stores even sell plastic handles that float!
The roller-rod is relatively simple to make. It consists of two parts welded together then a few holes. Note that the holes in the front socket end are only for draining water and the others are for the pin and nylon bushing pin. The nylon bushing pin must be removable or the boom will not be ably to be removed from the mast.

First I bought the winch handle, ($25.00), then I went to a Sears store and matched a socket to fit. It was an 11/16", 8 point socket, ($4.50). I thought a 3/4" socket was the correct size so maybe I got a metric wench handle. Originally I wanted to find a stainless steel socket but could not find one anywhere! Next I purchased 8" of 5/8" diam. 304 stainless steel rod, ($12.50 at Metal Express. A small quantity industrial metal supply store).

From here I just welded the socket and rod together as you see in the picture. Cutting the socket end off and turned a smooth spot at one end with a metal lath, I then welded the two parts together. (That was done so the handle would snap and lock in the rod section just like it does on winches.) Then I welded all the parts together plus drilled 1/4" holes through the socket, for water drainage, and three times at the opposite end of the rod. Two for anti boom roll pin and the last one for the attachment to the boom itself. The anti-roll pin holes act identical to the stock unit except the pin was now located behind the mast instead of in front as the factory had originally done.

Now it was time to modify the hole in the mast itself. I obtained 8" of 1-1/4" diameter, 304 stainless tubing, about 8" of SS 3/4"diam. SS tubing and about a foot of 1/2" wide 1/16" thick SS flat stock. With these parts I replicated the "winged tube" portion that comes stock from the factory except I used about 2" of 1-1/4" tube in the front portion so the socket could be recessed. Then I welded both of them together.

After calling the factory and talking with several other sailboat owners, I decided a 1-1/4" diam. hole in both front and back would weaken the mast too much. After some evaluations I figured that one larger hole in the front would not weaken the safety limits of the mast much at all. The mast's rear section hole was not altered at all. I carefully filed the front hole larger to accept the 1-1/4" portion of tube and being sure to keep it centered.

The furthest aft 1/4" hole is used to hold the boom and universal on. A quick release pin can be removed and allow the boom to be stored below while trailering.

Except for the socket everything is 304 stainless steel to slow any rusting, even the weld. The only reason the socket is not SS is because I couldn't find any common to the market. (I suppose a phone call to a winch manufacture would do.) The quality of most mechanic's sockets are pretty good so a little rust is something I'll have to live with.

Let's hope my tall-mast never breaks in that spot! *(Note: Since the original time of writing I've twice been In 30 knot winds and everything worked just fine.)

It really sounds difficult but it isn't! For those who don't weld, (I do regular welding not the fancy stuff), my friend who has for over thirty years, told me it would take about 20 minutes to do the welding only. At around $80 per hour it should only run about $20 to $25 dollars. You have to supply the metal and shaping.

Parts List:

Another Method - Steve's Boom Roller

Here is Steve's boom roller, it's got all lines going aft. This way he doesn't need to leave the comfort of his cockpit making this a safe and smart way to handle things!

His method entails a different modification at the gooseneck than my way. Where I designed nothing to reach out forward, he designed a line spool to fit on the roller rod. Check out the pictures.
I like the "all lines lead aft" that he did on his boat! (Last I heard, he can have one built for you!)

Line Cleaning

Take care of your line. Don't let things like dirt, build up on it. Gather it, put it in a mesh bag, then wash it on the gentle cycle, (you can even use fabric softener). If not that way, soak it in fresh water and mild soap. After it's clean, hang it up to dry.

Upper Forestay Mast Slot

The next time you inspect your upper forestay mount, look to see if the "bar" is wearing on the mast slot. Do to a couple reason's, mast rake being the biggest, it's possible to have the forestay pull the upper bar mount, and rub on the mast slot. A quick visual check will tell.

A simple fix would be to file the slot longer. While your in the area, don't forget to inspect the through bolt . It could be bent too. If it is, replace it with new stainless steel bolt. I did and added compression tubes on both sides of the bar. That now permits me to get a proper tightening and not crush the mast itself. In addition, the preloaded bolt resists bending much more than the stock setup bolt.

*Any bent bolts are inherently weaker and should never be straightened for reuse.

A-model & C-model Mast Comments

My dealer made the mistake of giving me a "C" tall mast and shrouds with my "A" tall mast sailboat. The mast is the same 30 feet long but is mounted on a slightly higher tabernackle. The forestay was a couple inches off and the lowers were also.

The forestay was corrected by adding a couple inches of hardware below the furler. The lowers on the "C" model mount on the side of the cabin and are about 7" shorter than what's used on the "A" model. After talking with the factory, they sent me the correct shrouds.

In my opinion, the jib sheet was cut for a seven inch higher block but the factory claims that sails for both are the same. 'Short of a re-cut sail, a new set of jib travelers might do the trick, (which is what I did at a later time.)

Easy Jib Removal

Concerns about road grim and sun UV made me look for ways to remove the entire foresail while land bound. If I could only find a good way to detach both upper and lower sections all would be set, so I kept looking and found a way!

Upper mount.

A standard pin using a cotter key was used to attach the upper furler to the mast. That was way to bothersome. Having to undo and replace the cotter key just to remove the holding pin! With all the hardware supplies on the market I figured something would do, I just had to find it. After hunting around, I found a wide-clevis that would fit the bill. Either 1/4" or 5/16" size will work just fine. Now I can quickly remove the upper section by unscrewing the pin.

The only modifications I did to the wide-clevis was to weld a small stainless steel tab on the pin so my fingers could unscrew the pin without needing a set of pliers. (Look carefully at picture on right.) The placement and removal will always be on land so I doubt if I'll ever loose my custom pin, but I do wish someone could make a captive wide-clevis.

All I have to remember now is to attach the upper furling unit before I start stepping the mast. But I would never do something that dumb! (Blush!)

Lower mount.

The left picture shows the lower furler mount. For lack of a better name I call it a knife-switch. *(It reminds me of those big electrical knife-switches used in the old Frankenstein movie.)

On the knife-switch I attached two stainless brackets and a 2,000 pound working load chain link. (See left picture.) Please note that you should get the forestay tension set where you want it before fully crimping the chain link permanently on to the aluminum bar. It's not expensive to replace but if you do crimp it tight on the bar then want to replace or move it you've just added 15+ minutes to the project.

On the bottom of the Harkens furler is where I attached a Wichard clevis. It allows for a quick disconnect.

If your wondering, it's a 1/4" Wichard #1433 captive pin clevis (seen on the right). It's listed with a 1430 pound safe working load but I've found that the forestay never goes that high even in a 30 knot blow!

Mast's Lower Shroud Attachment

A couple owners experienced a broken mast. Not a good thing! It seems that the upper end of the lower shrouds has a "ball" end, (looks like the end of a motorcycle cable). This is secured directly into the spreader bar a couple inches out from the mast.

According to the factory, the problem arises when aftermarket shrouds are used. Owner, Steve M. says the ball ends are, "an accident waiting to happen" no matter who makes them, so why not change them now.

Several owners have gone to a much stronger through-bolt setup. (I was told the factory switched on later models). If you choose this method you'll notice that it is attached just like the upper shroud's are to the mast. The new mounting position is located just below the spreaders.

Mast Through Bolt Warning

When you tighten those or any other mast bolt, remember not to "squash" the mast. Owner "Koviatt99" suggests using a compression fitting to prevent that possibility. (I did and find it's great to properly tighten the bolts!)

He suggests using aluminum or stainless tubing. It kind of looks like a long washer that goes through the entire mast.

First drill the mast to accept the compression fitting tube. The tube must be near-flush with both sides of the mast. Place one shroud on the bolt, then install the tube on the bolt and carefully insert it through the mast. Set the second shroud on the bolt end and fasten everything together.

*The compression fitting tube will also strengthen the bolt assisting in preventing it's bending. A similar compression fitting setup can be used on the upper forestay mount. Just remember you need two shorter compression fittings up there, one each side of the forestay anchor-bar, otherwise assemblage is the same.

Spreader Bar Warning

The factory claims that the older models used non-hardening spreader bars. Although they have replaced most in question with the hardened type, not all have been exchanged.

Steve M. had a stainless steel bar made to replace the aluminum one. (I believe he has more if you wish to acquire one from him.) Something to think about.

Coated Cable Warning

Although not recommended by the factory, should you decide to use vinyl coated shrouds, the factory suggests changing them more often than standard shrouds. If the section near the turnbuckle starts to looks bad, a rule-of-thumb is to replace them each four years if you sail in salt water, and every ten years if in fresh water.

Harkens Furler-line Warning

During the first year, I replaced the Harkens furling unit's line using smaller 3/16" line. This was done so I could use neat colors to distinguish lines and for a larger capacity for my "future" genoa, (in my dreams!). The only problem was that the smaller diameter line kept wrapping below the spool and getting caught.

Trying several things to fix this, nothing seemed to work, I was about to switch back to the original 1/4" line until I came up with using little nylon tie-wraps. Placing them on the unit, they hold the line up so it wouldn't get caught underneath. The tie-wraps acted sort-of-like a fishing reel by holding the line up. No problems since!

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